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How to grow broccoli in
north Florida
Broccoli is a must for every north Florida vegetable garden in the
cool months of late fall and early spring. It is easy to grow and
needs little protection from insects in most instances.
Broccoli is best when it matures in cold weather, so in north
Florida we want to put seedlings out during the months of
August-February. You can find seedlings at garden centers, Lowes,
Home Depot and other places throughout north Florida from about
September-October and again in late January or February. I
get my best results when I put seedlings out in mid-October and
again in February. This way I avoid having broccoli in the garden
during the coldest time of the year. Freezing temperatures can cause
broccoli to ‘button,” or form heads too soon.
The broccoli head is generally ready for harvest about 60 days after
planting. Many broccoli cultivars will produce numerous side shoots
for weeks after the main central head is harvested.
Suggested varieties of broccoli for north Florida gardens are Early
Green Sprouting, Waltham 29, Atlantic, Green Comet and Green Duke.
In recent years the seedlings available locally have been Packman
and Early Dividend. Both have performed well in my Niceville
vegetable garden.
READ THE FRONT-YARD FARMER'S BLOG I
like to space broccoli plants 24” apart in rows 30” apart, but they
can be as little as 18” apart in rows that are 24” apart. If you
are doing intensive farming, they can be planted 15” apart on
centers.
Make sure you firm the soil well around the roots. Not doing so
could lead to a smaller central head. I
generally mix in a good quality fertilizer in the soil before I put
the seedlings out and then side dress the plants a couple of times
over the next 60 days. Use a balanced fertilizer such as a
10-10-10, or maybe something with a little more phosphorus, such as
an 11-15-11. A good quality fertilizer will have both
fast and slow release forms of nitrogen and include a good
micronutrient package. Also before planting I usually mix some
organic material into the soil such as compost from the yard or
composted cow manure from the garden center.
About four or five days after I put the plants out, I will water
them with a high bloom fertilizer, such as
Green
Light Super Bloom. I’ll do it
again 10 days to two weeks later. This promotes a more fibrous root
system, allowing the plants to take in more nutrients. The result
is a larger central head and more numerous side shoots.
Seedlings may be attacked by cut worms. You can protect them by
covering the plants with a row cover or fashioning tinfoil collars
around the seedlings at soil level. As the plants grow, watch for
holes in the leaves of the plants. As soon as they appear, apply a
Baccillus thuringiensis
(BT) product such as Dipel dust, or
Thuricide, a liquid concentrate (typically available at Ace
Hardware). Apply again about a week later to kill the worms that
will be hatching out at that time. BT products are natural
biological products.
The plants need to be kept moist, so that means watering every
second or third day in north Florida if we don’t have rain. Not
enough water will stunt the growth of the plants or lead to
buttoning.
Harvest the central head while the buds are firm and still tight.
Simply make a diagonal cut about 4 to 6 inches below the head. In
warm weather you need to inspect the heads daily because they can
become overmature very quickly. |
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